Chapter 4 in the boy bedroom refresh series is a DIY headboard. This post is also part of the Build it For the Home Series with At Home DIY. (All the other projects from the participating bloggers are linked at the end) The challenge this month is “Build it Cheaper than Buying It”- one of my favorite things. If i was going to do this bedroom refresh “all the way”, I would need to give this kid a headboard. He has had only a bed frame since he moved to a full-sized bed. And with the pieces of metal tile I still had from the accent wall and letter, pulling the industrial feel to the other side of the room would be a breeze.
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The boy bedroom refresh series is sponsored by Aspect Tiles. DIY friendly self-stick tiles for all kinds of home design styles.
I really liked one headboard I found at Wayfair, but that was way out of my budget for a headboard. I was planning on making it myself anyway, so when this challenge came up, I knew it would be a perfect fit.
I’m a graph paper girl, so I sketched out a basic plan to give me an idea of was going for. The standard width of a full bed is 55″. I decided that roughly 48″ was probably a good height. Honestly for no reason other than it just felt right.
When planning out the cost, I decided to use common boards. They’re the midrange at Home Depot. You could make it for even less if you used furring strips, it would just require quite a bit of sanding and finishing work to make it smooth and polished.
Here are the pieces I bought and even how much I paid when I purchased them (prices may have changed since then).
- 2x4x96 whitewood stud $2.98
- 1x3x8 common board $4.91
- .25 x 1.25 lattice moulding $.96/linear ft
- 1x2x8 furring strip $1.18 ea
- 4×8 flooring underlayment $13.98
- Loctite construction adhesive $4.68
- underlayment 25 x 52″
- 1×3- 48″ x 6, 50″ x 2, 58″
- 1×2- 48″ x 2, 56″ x 3
- 2×4- 59.5
Using the top edge as your guide, attach the 56″ 1×2 across the top to join the two sides together. Use a speed square to keep your corners at 90°.
Measure down 25″ from the top, and glaue/nail a second 56″ 1×2 there.
Take the 3rd 56″ 1×2 and glue/nail it roughly half-way to add a bit of additional support.
*I chose to add an additional support under the bottom cross piece, I’m not confident it’s necessary. If you want to add it, it’s a 25″ 1×2 on each side.
Attach the piece of flooring underlayment to the front of your frame.
Now is where the pretty part starts. Sand down the 1×3 face boards to make them smooth and then add a stain in the color of your choice.
Once dry, I chose to glue and then screw the boards from the back side to avoid seeing nail marks on the front of the DIY headboard. I love using these trim screws because they have a small head and leave only a small hole.
Line up and attach one of the 48″ pieces to the front of the left leg, then attach another 48″ piece on the outside of the left leg (this piece I glued and nailed), covering the edges of the stacked wood. Then attach one of the 50″ pieces across the top (checking for square), and repeat the right front and then side again.
As you can see in the picture, I used this point to dry fit your top crown and make sure I liked where it was going.
Lay the frame down and attach the bottom 50″ piece. Dry fit your metal tiles to see how the layout looks for you. Cutting as you go. You will most likely have a bit of a gap. I expected it, so. I planned for a trim border so as not to have to cut a small piece of metal and to cover the sharp edges.
Once everything is dry fit, peel off the backing and stick everything down.
Trim out the lattice strips on a table saw to a preferred trim width (I just cut them in half) Then miter cut them to fit the edges of the tile section.
Use construction adhesive to attach the trim pieces along the edges to cover any gaps or sharp edges.
Attach the stained 58″ 1×3 across the top, and flush with the back, with an equal overhang on each side. Then the 59.5″ 2×4 across the very top with equal overhang on each end and also flush with the back.
Next, I took the piece inside and lined the headboard up with the bedframe.
I drew the attachment points. on both legs with a pencil.
Using a 9/32 drill bit, drill a hole in the center of each of the marks. Line up the frame and slide a 5/16″ -18 3″ hex bolt and washer from the frame through to the back of the headboard. Secure it in place with a washer and lock nut.
The wall art arrived today so the room is starting to head towards actually being complete. I’m very excited to check this box and move on to other things.
What do you think Are you Ready to take on a DIY headboard project of your own?
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